SAVOIR FAIRE The art of TAG Heuer dial finishes
3 min
TAG Heuer Carrera Date, Reference WBN2318.BA0001
Dials are generally from 0.4 to 0.7 mm thick. They are typically made of copper or brass, but can also be silver, bronze, steel, aluminium, and more rarely of meteorite, gold, hard stone, mother-of-pearl, precious stones, ceramic, and even sometimes wood. The majority however are made of brass, the best material for durability and the ability to withstand and beautifully render the different finish treatments. For whatever metal is used, the surface is coated and sealed to prevent oxidation and tarnish.
While brass and bronze are both copper alloys, brass is preferred due to its zinc content, harder and offering a better corrosion resistance than the tin alloy of bronze. Brass enables higher machinability, weldability, yield strength and sheer strength, and as the pressure to which dials are submitted is phenomenal, TAG Heuer chooses brass for the majority of its dials.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date, Reference WBN231C.BA0001
The complex process of crafting a dial
Making and completing a dial involves a process that includes 40 to 50, sometimes as many as 70 steps. First heated to 750°C to make it soft, a continuous length of brass is then fed into a stamping press, subjected to an immense pressure of up to 400 tonnes to cut out dial blanks, repeated to stamp out date and other windows from the blank. This pressing technique using extreme force can also produce various patterns on the dial surface, such as the horizontal wave pattern on the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date. Tiny feet are then applied to the back of the dial to attach it to the movement, and holes are made to connect the hour and minute hands to a central pinion, with others to attach applied indexes and numerals.
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A "starbust" dial, as found on various TAG Heuer watches, requires extra finishing steps.
The dial of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (reference: CBS5011.FC6566)
From sandblasting to sunburst
Surfacing using sandblasting, sunray brushing and lacquering give the dial a polished shine that reflects different colours under different lighting. Among different finishings, dials can be lacquered, enamelled, frosted, fumé, guilloché, or hammered, but the most frequently used are brushing or graining, that provide a subtle result with a delicately scratched, finely textured surface. Different effects on the dials are obtained by running it on a wire wheel that turn at different speeds with bristles of different lengths, widths and strength to obtain a linearly grained or sunburst pattern. When two or more textures are required to highlight for example, a sub-dial or chronograph counter, the first surface is protected while the second treatment is applied. Either way, the texture stands out on its own, or can be used with multiple finishes to convey complexity. Whether vertical, circular or radial pattern, each finishing offers a unique visual depth and texture that enhances the watch’s aesthetic appeal. Electroplating polishes and cleans the dial before the colour process can begin.
The color palette: A range of shades to choose from
For the delight of its wearers, TAG Heuer produces many dial shades to choose from. The main colours are obtained using a galvanisation process that further protects the dial surface from ageing and consists of a series of chemical baths to obtain the desired colour and depth on the dial. For a detail such as a text, logo or motif required in another colour, special paints are applied to the dial surface using a pad printing machine. This delicate operation is carefully overseen by a watchmaker who knows exactly the right amount of paint to apply to the dial membrane so that the paint dries quickly without smudging. At TAG Heuer, an impressive succession of five different colours can be applied quickly, without smearing, thanks to the state-of-the-art machines.
Examples include the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper – a circular brushed dial with circular spiral sub-dials in different colours, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph and Ceramic with green sunray brushed and circular spiral-patterned counters with hints of orange, and the TAG Heuer Carrera Date with sunray brushed dials in pastel green or powdery pink.
The dial of a TAG Heuer watch is not just a surface displaying the time; it is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, combining precision, material science, and aesthetic artistry. Whether it’s the sunburst effect of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon or the vibrant color combinations of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph, each timepiece’s dial tells a story of innovation and elegance. The finishes not only enhance the visual appeal of the watch but also contribute to its durability, ensuring that it remains a timeless piece on your wrist.
