SAVOIR FAIRE Swiss Made Savoir-Faire, Chapter Three: Our Movements, Perfected to the Micron

Welcome to our ‘House’ – join us for an in-depth exploration of the extraordinary savoir-faire that defines our TAG Heuer Maison. In this series, we’re taking you behind the scenes, all the way into the very ateliers where horological marvels are born. From the first inkling of an idea, to the final polish on each perfected timepiece – via every careful step in-between. Already an expert on the art of watchmaking? Get ready to take your knowledge to the next level, with up-close-and-personal details sure to thrill even you masterminds of Swiss-Made magic. In Chapter Three, we’re taking a closer look at several stages of our movement-making in Chevenez, Switzerland. More on movements to follow, with a second chapter exploring the assembly of our timepieces at our headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

At Chevenez, we are constantly seeking the utmost precision in our practices – the process of movement-making generally includes multiple complex stages.  These range from the cutting of brass components by machining and milling to a precision of 5 microns, to ‘reaming’, or removal and refining of edges on brass components.  Trimming, sandblasting, mounting, and electrotyping (also known as ‘galvanoplasty’) come before the pressing and setting of up to 70 ‘jewels’ (or jewel bearings) and metal components.  Simple, right?

At every stage, we examine quality carefully – often under a microscope! We also use large-scale digital displays to see the motion of various tiny parts up close and personal; from conception all the way to the programming of our machines, precise quality checks are paramount. 

Machining of the brass plates, the raw materials which will eventually be transformed into incredibly complex structures, involves six machines which are refined to actions within the confinement of +/- 5 microns. In this way, we optimize accuracy in each of our movements.

As part of our objectives to increase sustainability and support our beautiful natural surroundings, we have implemented several key practices to reduce waste, energy consumption, and the impact of the products we use on the environment.  Specifically, we now recycle leftover brass fragments from our milling and machining processes.  We implement solar power wherever possible. We have minimised our use of chemicals and our overall emissions since 2016.  What’s more, our washing greywater is now sent to a specialised company to be cleaned, filtered, and recycled biologically.

Sandblasting develops the aesthetic finish of our movements, refining and unifying the surfaces to prepare them for their final finishes. But this rather messy process then requires extensive washing and cleaning before finishes such as nickel electroplating can be added.  Several components are also treated with a thin, invisible layer of material to serve as a barrier against the spreading of oil throughout the movement.

Next, different components are positioned into the brass plate.  A program is set to place each component with exceptional precision – simultaneously testing force, pressure, and position within the tiny holes where they must be mounted to ensure the correct functioning of the movement. About ten percent of our movements undergo complete quality testing at an extensive level to be sure that the nearly 70 components are always in their perfect place before they are pressed into the movement.  These components range from wheels and screws to the synthetic rubies, add lubrication to the movement.  By reducing friction in the many moving parts, they are able to preserve efficiency in our watches.

The quality control program for this stage of the process is created at the same time as the design of the movement; each component must be positioned according to the design of the individual watch, with tiny pieces fitted perfectly into their places.  A ‘zero point’ is established for each timepiece’s movement, to determine the exact depth or height at which components are placed within a range of  +/- 10 microns.

With every piece in position, our movements are ready to move on to their next stage of the journey at our Headquarters in La-Chaux-de-Fonds.  Stay tuned for an exploration of the way our signature Heuer 02 movements are incorporated into our timepieces at our Headquarters in La-Chaux-de-Fonds.