Watches A story of design: The TAG Heuer Carrera, Chapter Two

Missed chapter one? A Story of Design: The TAG Heuer Carrera, Chapter One

The TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39mm and the Day Date 41mm feature either sunray-snailed or sunray-brushed dials dependent on the dial colour selected.

On the previous generation TAG Heuer Carrera three hands, the date aperture was positioned at 3 o’clock, however, with the advent of this latest collection, the aperture has now moved to 6 o’clock, delivering a more balanced, symmetrical appearance. The only model that does not adopt this change is the TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41mm which continues to display its eponymous indications at 3 o’clock. The silver-toned border framing the date or day date indications is employed on all models. It is now slimmer and doesn’t project as from the dial’s epidermis. It looks neater and more sophisticated.

When Jack Heuer conceived the design of the inaugural Heuer Carrera of 1963, he restricted the amount of text applied to the dial. Indeed, four words said it all ‘Carrera’, ‘Heuer’ and ‘Swiss Made’. The new model features new typography, less text and a new version of the brand’s logo. The resultant appearance is crisp and exhibits a wonderfully pure appearance.

The inner bezel is now flatter and wider. As Guy explained to me, the intention was to make the watch appear “more instrument-like, similar to a speedometer.”

Guy Bove also pointed out the hour and minute hands fitted to the latest TAG Carrera three hands. The baton style hands of the previous model have been supplanted by items similar to those first seen on the Heuer Monaco of 1969, albeit the new hands eschew colour in favour of a monochromatic palette.

The well-defined tip of each hand along with the central line running through the hands points to the minute track and indexes with laser-like accuracy, reinforcing the perception of precise timekeeping.

The objective of the Product Design Team was to perpetuate the model’s longstanding reputation for legibility and the latest hands successfully play their part.

The bezel is now positioned higher than before and incorporates more facets. The neighbouring sapphire crystal is slightly curved and features a bevelled edge. By making these small modifications, the resultant bezel and sapphire crystal combination seem more sophisticated yet everything remains notably uncluttered.

Since its inception the TAG Heuer Carrera has always had very distinctive ‘cut-out’ lugs. The inner section of the lugs, positioned adjacent the strap, slope inwards interacting with light differently to other nearby surfaces. Once again, this model wonderfully manipulates the relationship between surfaces and the nearby sources of light.

On the new TAG Heuer Carrera three hands, the tips of the lugs have been updated to incorporate a more intricate, softly sloping profile. Moreover, the lugs no longer terminate when they reach the bezel but flow onwards towards the main section of the case and then circumnavigate the bezel. The resultant profile sees two slender lines of stainless steel just projecting from each side of the case, delivering a more organic, flowing outline.

By making the lugs shorter, the bracelet is more integrated and as a result it flexes more readily around the wearer’s wrist improving wearer comfort.

The lug’s upper and lower surfaces are highly polished whereas the vertical sides of the case are satin-brushed. This blend of surface treatments is costlier to execute but bestows the case with a sumptuous look and feel.

The steel bracelet affixed to the TAG Heuer Carrera three hands proves smoother than ever. The bracelet features a brushed finish on most links, however, close examination of the central brushed links reveals they have polished faceted edges, a finish that is also repeated on the edges of the bracelet.

While chatting to Guy Bove, Creative Product Design Director, he revealed that the H-shaped bracelet is very similar to the bracelet introduced on last year’s TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph models. The links have deliberately been made thinner and have been designed to follow the natural curve of the wrist, thereby heightening wearer comfort.

Owners of the previous version of the TAG Heuer Carrera three hands can be rest assured, they own a fabulous watch. Furthermore, the family likeness between this model and its forebears is clear to see, mitigating any suggestion of obsolescence.

Nevertheless, TAG Heuer could never been accused of complacency or, as previously stated, resting on its laurels. Since the Maison was founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, it has continuously sought improvement. Indeed, it has never ceased innovating and has always been unwavering in its pursuit of product development and advancement.

When viewed in isolation, some of the changes applied to this new watch may seem very small, perhaps leading some observers to question whether it was worth the trouble. However, when the watch is viewed in its entirety, the wisdom of such changes becomes very apparent. Guy Bove and his team never cease from their desire to make great watches even better, a pursuit that is vindicated with this latest model.

Finally, there is one last thing to mention. For all admirers of Jack Heuer and his pioneering chronograph of 1963, all four variants of the new TAG Heuer Carrera uphold his belief in ‘clear and clean design’.