Watches THE ULTIMATE COLLECTOR’S GUIDE: TAG HEUER AQUARACER

Watch collections, like any family, move through cycles; driven by popular demand, changing styles and creative innovation. Over the years, models may become larger or smaller, change focus from utilitarianism to elegance, and even switch between different movements. Add in the many variations between simple three-hand watches and complicated chronographs, and the choices can seem endless.

Historically, much of the TAG Heuer catalog has been focused on motorsport or aviation, but the TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection stands apart. This series of watches is purpose-designed and built for water sports, from sailing to diving via… everything in between. Today, the Aquaracer remains the collection which has continuously maintained the ‘Six Features’ (Water Resistant to 200m, Screw in Crown, Double Safety Clasp, Unidirectional Bezel, Sapphire Crystal, Luminous Markings) since its launch – making it the direct descendant of the Heuer diving watches introduced in 1978.  While the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco collections might have originated all the way back in the 1960s, the 2000 Series (and therefore the Aquaracer) has the longest continuous production of any TAG Heuer collection, totaling more than four decades. 

TAG Heuer’s dive watches, first introduced in the late 1970s, have moved gracefully through many evolutions – changing with the times, the technology, and even the preferences of our watch enthusiasts themselves. Heuer introduced its first series of dive watches in 1978; this collection developed rapidly, as the watches became extremely popular. Building upon the appeal of the 1000 Series, Heuer created the 2000 Series in 1982, until 1998.  This was an extremely elegant collection that added a touch of ‘fashion’ to the dive watch category with its broad variety of styles, colors and materials. The third generation of the 2000 Series was divided into three sub-collections – ‘Classic’, ‘Exclusive’ and ‘Sport’. Eventually, the 2000 Series incorporated the features of the ‘Sport ‘ series and moved into its soon-to-be-iconic fourth generation: the ‘Aquaracer’ series. 

The third generation of the 2000 Series arrived in 1998, when the collection was divided into three lines — the 2000 Classic, the 2000 Exclusive and the 2000 Sport models. The 2000 Classic watches continued the traditional style of the 2000 Series watches, while the 2000 Exclusive models were bolder, with a heavier, stronger-looking bezel, restyled hands and oversized numerals on the dial at 6, 9 and 12.

The 2000 Sport models (the predecessor of the Aquaracer) had an aluminum bezel with prominent lume-filled numerals around the dial. These 2000 Sport models took some style elements from the very first Heuer dive watches, including the traditional Mercedes-style hands and the red / black bezel. There were relatively few models in this first line-up of 2000 Sport models, as the 2000 Sport line would soon be replaced by the new Aquaracer model.

After a short run, the 2000 Sport series was discontinued in 2002, but returned in 2004, as the 2000 Aquaracer. As such, the Aquaracer represents the fourth generation of the 2000 Series dive watches.

On the very first Aquaracer models, dials were marked ‘Professional’, rather than ‘Aquaracer’, but catalogs referred to the 2000 Aquaracer; the name was so evocative that it stuck! Defining features of the first iteration were aluminum bezels to match the dial, a yellow second hand to allow divers to easily check their display, and waterproofing increased from 200 meters to 300 meters. The first 2000 Aquaracer models met with great success, prompting TAG Heuer to relaunch the full 2000 Series model line as the ‘Aquaracer’ in 2005.

AQUARACER GENERATION 1: 2005-2009

In making the transition from the 2000 Series to the Aquaracer collection, the names of individual series were changed:

• The 2000 Classic and Elegance series were renamed ‘Aquaracer’
• The 2000 Aquaracer became the Aquaracer 300m
• The 2000 Aquagraph chronograph became simply the ‘Aquagraph’
• New Aquaracer models were also launched

There were two case sizes offered for the new Aquaracer range – 38.4mm (principally the quartz watches) and 41mm (mainly the automatic range).

AQUARACER CALIBRE 16 CHRONOGRAPH

The first of the Aquaracer Calibre 16 Chronograph watches, reference CAF2110, came in a 41mm case in 2005 in three dial colours: black, blue and silver. A second Calibre 16 Chronograph, reference CAF2010, was added to the range in 2006, this time with a Day-Date feature and a circular pattern on the outer edge of the dial. The Day-Date model used a 43mm case, while the date-only model continued with a 41mm case.

In addition to their different dials, the two Calibre 16 models feature different chronograph pusher designs: round pushers on the earlier 41mm model and rectangular pushers on the later version.

AQUARACER QUARTZ WATCH AND 300M 1/10TH CHRONOGRAPH

The 38mm Quartz model was the closest in design to the previous 2000 series and featured an updated dial design. It also featured new hands and hour-markers, as well as a new bezel with larger 10-minute markers and bigger, highly polished bezel studs. While the basic case shape remained the same, tracing its origin back to 1982, the size increased slightly from 37.2mm to 38.4mm. Another quartz option in the range was the 1/10th Chronograph model, which used the same case design and round pushers as the 41mm Calibre 16 chronograph.  There were three dial colors, each with contrasting registers – black with white registers (CAF1110), silver with blue registers (CAF1111), and blue with white registers (CAF1112).

Like many TAG Heuer watches from this period, the coloured TAG Heuer logo is used on Quartz models, while the monochrome logo was used on automatic watches.

AQUARACER AUTOMATIC WATCH

The Aquaracer automatic watch continued to use the Clous de Paris dial pattern (a guilloche pattern of hollowed lines that intersect to form tiny pyramidal shapes, sometimes called “hobnail”) as was used on the Automatic 2000 series. But design changes came in the form of upgraded hour-markers, hands and bezel – in line with the changes made to the quartz three-hand watch – while the dials were marked Automatic 300 meters. All watches in this range use the Calibre 5 movement and shared the same 38.4 mm case.

OTHER GENERATION 1 MODELS

Over the four years of the first generation Aquaracer, several niche models were introduced, many of which used the Calibre 16 Chronograph case. For example, there were two Grand Date models from 2008, with subsidiary dial designs echoing those of the Carrera Calibre 1 (running seconds at the bottom of the dial, in a semi-circular form).

The innovative Calibre S movement found its way into the Aquaracer, as did a quartz/analogue hybrid movement in the Aquaracer Chronotimer shown below left. The Chronotimer was also available with a bright yellow dial (CAF1011).

The following is the range of movements offered across the first Aquaracer series, in many instances continuing over the years.

• Aquaracer 300m: ETA F06 111
• Aquaracer Calibre 16 Chronograph: Valjoux 7750
• Aquaracer Calibre S: TAG Heuer Calibre S
• Aquaracer Quartz Chronograph: ETA 251.262
• Aquaracer Automatic: Calibre 5
• Aquaracer Chronotimer: ETA E20.321

AQUARACER GENERATION 2: 2009-2012

The second generation Aquaracer saw the series range divided into two. The traditional rounded case design continued with a variety of movements and designs, while a new more angular, sharp-edged case was introduced to support a new collection: the Aquaracer 500m.

AQUARACER 500M CALIBRE 5 WATCH AND CALIBRE 16 CHRONOGRAPH

The Aquagraph chronograph was introduced in 2003 and had a 500 meter depth rating, but with the Aquagraph discontinued, a new hard core dive model with this 500 meter rating was needed. 

The first Aquaracer 500m from 2009 was a modern classic – a bold new case, eliminating the curves of the original 2000 Series, featuring an innovative rubber-ridged bezel with applied metal numerals, an oversized crown, and a helium escape-valve. The new 500 meter Aquaracers had vertical ribbing on the dial, and on the Calibre 5 and quartz models, the date window was positioned at 9 o’clock with a cyclops.

The changes extended to the newly designed rubber straps, which were now fitted with end-pieces featuring ornamental screw heads.

A standout member of this new range was the Aquaracer 500m Full Black (WAJ2180), featuring a blackened titanium case and dial offset by yellow lume on the hands and hour-markers.

AQUARACER 300M RANGE

Alongside the new Aquaracer 500m was the 300m series, which extended across quartz and mechanical 3-hand watch models, as well as an alarm variant (WAP1112), a Calibre 16 Chronograph (CAP2112) and a Grand Date offering (WAF1014).

These models continued the traditional Aquaracer look, offering a more sober and sophisticated design than the bold new 500m models.

GENERATION 3: 2012-2014

In 2012, TAG Heuer introduced a revised version of Aquaracer 500 meter models, replacing the edgy design of the previous 500 meter case with a more traditional, softer style of case, and an important new innovation – a ceramic bezel.  The case size moved from 43 millimeters to 41 millimeters and the ribbing on the dial was now horizontal, with the date moving back to the traditional 3 o’clock position.  Stainless steel models included a black dial (WAK2110), a blue dial (WAK 2111), a champagne dial (WAK2121) and a blue dial in a bi-metallic model (WAK2120). For the first time, the Aquaracer was available in a full black case, made of titanium carbide (WAK2180). 

AQUARACER 500M CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE 16 AND CALIBRE 72

There were two automatic chronographs available in the third generation Aquaracer range, both in stainless steel 43 millimeter cases — the “traditional” Calibre 16 and a new Calibre 72 Countdown Chronograph.  The Calibre 72 chonrograph, named in honor of Oracle Team USA’s 72 foot catamaran, was available as either an Oracle Team USA America’s Cup Limited Edition (CAK211B) or a standard production model (CAK211A). 

GENERATION 4: 2014 – 2021

The fourth generation Aquaracer series saw the end of the Aquaracer 500m series, with two newly designed Aquaracer 300m families: one with a steel bezel and the other with a coloured ceramic bezel.

Perhaps the biggest change in the fourth Generation series was a new bezel design, with the serrated edges of the previous generation replaced by flat edges. Moving to the dial, the new Aquaracer 300m family featured enlarged polished triangle-shaped indices and a new, larger hand-set with a coloured tip on the sweeping seconds hand.

AQUARACER 300M CALIBRE 5 STEEL BEZEL

The first model to introduce this new shape was the 2014 Aquaracer Calibre 5 watch, which carried over the patterned dial of the previous model. The Aquaracer 300m used a 40.5mm steel case, with a combination of brushed and polished finishes; a newly-designed rubber strap was offered, as well as the TAG Heuer “H-Link” bracelet first introduced on the Grand Carrera series.

In 2017, a second Calibre 5 model was added with the same hour-markers and hands as its ceramic-bezelled version, distinguished by the use of ‘Calibre 5’ printed in colour on the dial. A cyclops was also added over the date window.

AQUARACER 300M CHRONOGRAPH STEEL BEZEL

The look of the Calibre 5 model extended into two chronograph options: the quartz 1/ 10th Grand Date model and the automatic Calibre 16 model; both these chronographs used a larger 43mm steel case.

There was also a new mechanical chronograph option, the Calibre 45, with its 54 jewel movement. This model had the chronograph minute recorder at 9 o’clock and the hour recorder at 6 o’clock, with running seconds at 3 o’clock.  Featuring a prominent date window at the top of the dial, this model was called the ‘Big Date’.

AQUARACER 300M CALIBRE 5 CERAMIC BEZEL

In 2015 the new Ceramic Bezel Aquaracer 300m replaced the Aquaracer 500m series. Based on the steel-bezel watch, the Aquaracer 300m Ceramic received even larger hour-markers. The Calibre 5 series was initially available in a 41mm case, with a larger 43mm option added in 2016.

AQUARACER 300M CALIBRE 5 CERAMIC BEZEL- SPORTS MODELS

2017 brought the introduction of what collectors have called a ‘sports’ series of Aquaracer Calibre 5 watches. Variations include finishes such as camouflage-pattern dials and vibrant colours, including matching straps. A model with a carbon-fiber bezel was introduced in 2018.

AQUARACER 300M CALIBRE 16 CERAMIC BEZEL

The Aquaracer 300m ceramic bezel family also includes a 43mm Chronograph range, which adds the design flourishes of the Calibre 5 watches to the larger chronograph case.

Heuer introduced its first dive watches in 1978, and after offering the entirely utilitarian 1000 Series models, broadened its collection of dive watches in 1982 to add elements of fashion and broader appeal, with the arrival of the 2000 Series. After the success of this diverse range of dive watches, and the intervening addition of other collections that offered greater elegance than the traditional dive watch, in 2004 the 2000 Series was renamed ‘Aquaracer’ and would return to offering the most rugged and reliable tools for diving. Since that time, the Aquaracer collection has incorporated a broad variety of styles, colors, materials and movements, including both three-hand watches and chronographs. The  touchstone of the Aquaracer collection? Always offering the most reliable tools for diving – without ever compromising on style.