Watches By the Light of the Lume

3 min

David Chalmers Editor and Founder of Calibre 11

As TAG Heuer launches a new addition to the Aquaracer Professional 300 range, we look at the historic inspiration for the 2021 Aquaracer Night Diver, a story that takes us back to the famous TAG Heuer dive watches of the 1980s and an unexpected appearance in a legendary movie.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Profession 300 Night Diver (WBP201D.FT6197)

The arrival of the Aquaracer Professional 300 series earlier this year marked the latest chapter in the history of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer series, a watch that traces its origins back to 1982. Then called the 2000 series, the watch was the final series launched under the stewardship of Jack Heuer and continued the legacy of TAG Heuer diving watches from the late 1970s that began with the reference 844. Included in the 2021 Aquaracer collection is a limited-edition model that pays tribute to the reference 844, but not only: the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver (WBP201D.FT6197)

Before we go into the history of the Night Diver, let’s first take a closer look at the new watch. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver has a 43mm steel case, which is DLC (“Diamond-Like Carbon”) coated, giving the watch it’s blackened appearance. The DLC treatment extends beyond the case to also include the crown, the caseback and watch’s folding clasp. This “full black” finish gives the watch a distinct look compared to the regular stainless steel Aquaracer watches. Contrasting this all-black look is the white Super-LumiNova® opaline dial, with the same white Super-LumiNova® also applied to the hour and minute hands. On your typical dive watch, Super-LumiNova® is applied to the hands and the hour-markers, allowing these to glow in the dark. But the Night Diver is different, as the entire dial glows, with several of the hour-markers not coated, so they appear dark on the glowing dial. This is where the name Night Diver comes from, an enhanced dial design to glow more than a standard dial.

TAG Heuer first explored this idea in 1983 when it launched a range of dive watches with a phosphorescent dial, which the catalogue at the time noted was “Perfect for wear at any time. Even when diving at night.” Just like the 2021 Night Diver, these watches were offered with a range of case finishes, including a khaki-coloured case and a full black case. The similarities don’t end there, because the dial layout of the 2021 Night Diver is also inspired by the 1983 range, featuring eight black circular hour markers, three phosphorous hour markers and a space for the date window occupying the 12th position.

The TAG Heuer range of Night Diver watches were hugely popular in the 1980s and still command interest from collectors today, thanks to their classic case design and unique dial. Adding to the collectability in recent times has been the discovery that one of the watches (Reference 980.031) was worn in the 1987 film The Living Daylights. Before the days of high value corporate sponsorships, it’s thought that producers of The Living Daylights sourced the watches themselves from local watch dealers, rather than being supplied directly by TAG Heuer. The trademark phosphorescent dial of the watch can be seen briefly on the wrist of Timothy Dalton as he disposes of yet-another evil henchman, who was no doubt blocking his path to romance and a properly made Martini. The only reason that it was possible to identify the watch as a TAG Heuer from this fleeting appearance was because of the watch’s distinctive dial, which is the signature design of the Night Diver and one which TAG Heuer continues with the latest 2021 model.

While the dial of the 2021 Aquaracer is similarly distinctive as the bold 1980s original, there are a few modern features on the newer watch that every secret agent would appreciate. One of the nicest touches is the newly designed black rubber strap, which is teamed with TAG Heuer’s new folding clasp design that allows for micro adjustment. The way that this works is by squeezing the two push-buttons on the side of the clasp, which allows the clasp to slide to a perfect fit. It’s easy to use and adds a lot of practicality for the summer months when you want a more relaxed fit on your watch. The new rubber strap design is being progressively rolled out across the full Aquaracer range, as an alternative, or addition, to the bracelet. And while the original 1980s watches were typically fitted with quartz battery-powered movements, the 2021 Aquaracer Night Diver features a Swiss-made Calibre 5 automatic movement.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver (WBP201D.FT6197)

As TAG Heuer continue to develop the Aquaracer series, it’s encouraging to note how many of the new watches draw inspiration from the famous dive watches of the 1970s and 80s, whether it be the Night Diver, the 844 Tribute Edition, or indeed the choice of bright Orange on the recent Bamford Aquaracer, TAG Heuer is recognising that it’s not just the Monaco, Autavia and Carrera series that get to celebrate their heritage. TAG Heuer has a rich history of innovative dive watches, with the Night Diver being the latest Aquaracer to adapt the best aspects of classic models to what is a thoroughly modern dive watch.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver (WBP201D.FT6197)

David Chalmers Editor and Founder of Calibre 11