Watches A Story of Design: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer, Chapter Three
8 min
Angus Davies Co-founder of Escapement Magazine
Missed the first chapters? Read Chapter One and Chapter Two first!
There is a plethora of refinements to be found on the dial and case of the new Aquaracer. Some updates are small while others are more conspicuous, however, when Guy explains the rationale for each change, every one seems justified. In this chapter, I look at the additional improvements made to this watch over and above those already discussed.
WBP201B.BA0632
The Dial
As stated in the earlier parts of my 3-part feature, ‘evolve’ and ‘refine’ are the watchwords when updating a very successful model. Cautious minds may well be tempted to subscribe to the ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ mindset but, as I have previously stated, TAG Heuer would never support such an idea. Continuous improvement is the order of the day in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
On the outgoing model, the date aperture was positioned at 3 o’clock, however, with the new models it is located at 6 o’clock. The result is that the dial is symmetrical, a characteristic that will be repeated on all future TAG Heuer models. Furthremore, the date now slopes and sits beneath a magnifying lens, engraved into the underside of the sapphire crystal. These details augment readability, especially when viewed from various angles. The exterior of the sapphire crystal is free of any annoying bubble-like protrusions yet continues to draw attention to the date window.
TAG Heuer’s design department has revisited the trapezoidal indexes positioned at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock. These have been carried over from the previous model, but now adopt a more straightforward design. Moreover, they now incorporate more facets, attracting more light onto the dial. Inspired by the 12-sided bezel, the formerly trapezoidal indexes, located at 1,2,4,5,7,8,10 and 11 o’clock, are now octagonal shaped. The outer edge of each index follows the trajectory of the bezel. At 6 o’clock, where the date indication resides, the hour is denoted with a small rectangular-shaped baton.
The Aquaracer hour hand is a new design. It’s a different shape and it also looks very different from the minute hand, a characteristic which is popular within the diving fraternity. As Guy explained, “It has a calmer look than the previous one, but primarily, it delivers superior legibility. Instant readability and precision were things that Jack Heuer would not compromise on, he was unwavering on these attributes, two fundamental characteristics he brought to the brand back in the 60s.”
The central sweep seconds hand features a luminescent lollipop which has been repositioned to, once again, augment readability.
Previously, the markings located between the indexes on the inner bezel were longer and bigger. By revisiting this detail and relocating the minute track to a raised inner bezel, the markings align precisely with the outer bezel, a characteristic which proves helpful when diving. Personally speaking, I think the new markings look neater. In addition, the inner bezel holding the minute track is now raised, stepping up from the main surface.
The typeface on the dial has been updated and looks sharper and cleaner as a result. Indeed, Guy Bove explains, “We have revisited the typeface and markings to make the dial appear a little bit more elegant. For instance, on the previous model, the Aquaracer name was positioned below the brand’s name. On this latest version, the model’s name sits above the TAG Heuer logo. Once again, this distinguishing characteristic will appear on all TAG Heuer models moving forward.”
WBP201B.BA0632
The Case
As previously mentioned, the proportions of the bezel height to the case height have changed. The watch head is slightly thinner, while the bracelet is actually a third slimmer.
The new case features an ‘evolutive bevel’ along the top edge of the horns which is highly polished, delivering an attractive contrast with the adjacent fine brushed surfaces. This has allowed the designers to employ unhindered creativity with the side view of the watch while leaving the top surface untouched. The crown protector has been extended, projecting a bit more from the case. This detail was inspired by the 844, albeit on the new model it is less prominent.
TAG Heuer has equipped the new model with a ceramic inlay, supplanting the former aluminium bezel seen on previous models. Knurling, inspired by the 844, now adorns the vertical flank of the bezel. When rotating the bezel it feels positive, refined and is accompanied by a very pleasant click sound.
WBP208C.FT6201
Other notable characteristics of the new Aquaracer include the horns which are now shorter and point downwards more sharply, improving the ergonomic relationship between the wearer and the watch. The crown features a polished flank, incorporating a 12-sided polygon that surrounds the brand’s logo, positioned centre stage.
To the rear of the watch, the caseback is embellished with a new depiction of a diver’s helmet, designed entirely using angular shapes. It is surrounded by a sea of hexagons which introduce a surprising dose of modernity to the rear of the case. The screwed-down caseback is centred, ensuring that the helmet is perfectly aligned along a 12-6 axis.
Lastly, apart from being slimmer, the new bracelet is fitted with a 15mm adjustment system which can be operated whilst the watch is being worn, an ideal feature when diving, but also useful on warm summer days when wrists have a tendency to swell.
Other design considerations
When Guy designs a watch, he considers how it will interact with light as well as how easily it can photographed in an Instagram-obsessed world. He employs a computer programme to simulate how light will fall upon each facet of the dial, bezel and case ensuring the watch always looks handsome irrespective of the prevailing light conditions.
Ergonomics is another important consideration. After sketches on paper are replicated using a CAD (computer-aided design) system, the composition of the case and bracelet are repeatedly refined and honed to a near-perfect conclusion. Models are made using 3D printing and affixed to different arms to evaluate the wrist-fit. Indeed, it is after repeatedly looking at the case, particularly the lugs, and the bracelet design that Guy’s team can deliver peerless wearer comfort.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating
It is often said, ‘the proof of the pudding is in the eating’. I’ve been wearing a sample of the new Aquaracer Professional 300 over the last few days and have grown to know it well. The legibility and wearer comfort are beyond reproach, however, its brilliance surpasses these functional aspects.
In particular, the interplay between the polished and fine brushed surfaces, each in close proximity, proves discrete and perfectly defined. The reoccurring blend of six, eight and 12-sided shapes bestows interest while conferring a harmonious appearance. The ceramic bezel inlay promises a factory-fresh appearance for years to come. Rotate the unidirectional bezel and note its reassuring click, its sumptuous feel and its smile-inducing soundtrack. The list goes on and on …
WBP201A.BA0632 / WBP201B.BA0632 / WBP201C.BA0632
Closing remarks
The Aquaracer Professional 300 delivers an impressive quality-price ratio that distinguishes it as special. Indeed, this watch looks and feels better than anything I can think of within this price segment. Part of this model’s competitiveness can be attributed to the brand’s impressive production know-how and the economies of scale it enjoys. But perhaps most of all, this model’s notable excellence can be attributed to the brand’s fastidious attention to design.
Angus Davies Co-founder of Escapement Magazine
