LIFESTYLE An Unexpected Time in Tokyo

Famously the largest metropolitan city in the world, Tokyo is a labyrinth you could spend years exploring… and barely scratch the surface. Don’t have decades to spare? With our guide to several secret, strange, and undiscovered gems, tucked away in Tokyo’s bustling prefectures, you’ll be able to cheat the crowds; not to mention smile patronisingly at anyone waxing lyrical about mere california rolls and cherry blossom.

An important tip before hopping on public transport to reach your destination? Be prepared to get shoved. The Oshiya or ‘Pushers’ are hired by the city to literally push the millions of passengers onto incredibly crowded trains during rush hour, and especially during the morning commute. The politest way to respond to a hard shove from behind is a grateful, ‘arigato gozaimasu!’ or ‘thank you very much!’

Prepare yourself for the flood (or just to admire some unusual architecture) and visit the un-sexily named ‘Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel’ in the Saitama district. More colloquially known as the ‘underground temple’, nothing can quite prepare the senses for this incredible space which is in fact a gargantuan ‘surge’ tank. Completed in 2006, it is the world’s largest underground flood water diversion facility (Tokyo doesn’t tend to do things by halves). And if that description still isn’t tickling your fancy, whet your appetite with a youtube video or two – the awe-inspiring, otherworldly atmosphere of this cavernous vault has inspired music videos, photo shoots, and guided tours that explain in eye-popping detail what might happen should the worst occur…

• Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel, 720 city, Kamikanasaki, Kasukabe, Saitama 344-0111, Japan

While Tokyo is, officially, the world’s number one foodie destination with an almost absurd 230 Michelin-starred restaurants (13 of which hold the very-nearly-unattainable three stars), there are also an incredible number of sensational dining experience to be had off the beaten track. Start your adventure by wending your way through the bar-lined streets of Shinjuku-Sanchome to the jewel that is Horumon Nabe Morioka Goro. Word of warning – specialising in hot-pots and grilled giblets, this destination favours the carnivore. After identifying a tiny sign on the wall, you’ll need to proceed upstairs to an everyday bar… and a fridge door. Proceed through the ‘refrigerator’ and emerge in a retro backroom/speakeasy atmosphere full of the fragrances of ‘Horumon Nabe’ (that’s a heavenly, steaming mixture of pork, cabbage and tofu). According to reviews, this splendid stuff ‘sounds simple, tastes incredible, gets addictive fast’. (timeout)

• Horumon Nabe Morioka Goro, 〒160-0022 Tokyo, Shinjuku City, Shinjuku, 3 Chome−7−7 十字屋ビル 2F, Japan

If there’s one classically touristy experience we’d recommend indulging in while you’re here, it’s a traditional tea ceremony. Though if you’re pressed for time, this 300-year-old tea seller caters to every level of commitment, from takeout matcha (hot or iced) to loose leaves for home brewing. You could even wander round for a while simply inhaling the wares and walk away happy. Founded in Kyoto in 1717, Ippodo Marunouchi is home to a full-service tea room where you can sit and get serious with your afternoon jasmine. Accompany your tea with delicious specialty sweet-treats. Caffeine up for a trip to the Imperial Gardens or de-stress after attempting to cross any major intersection.

• Ippodo Marunouchi, 〒100-0005 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Marunouchi, 3 Chome−1−1, Teigeki Building, 1階, Japan

Ready to party? If you’ve landed in Tokyo with fate on your side, you’ll be just in time for a monthly DJ event to knock your socks off – and pick up some snacks to take back to your hotel at the same time, if you’re feeling peckish. This not-so regular convenience store also holds a late-night DJ set once a month, open to anyone who can figure out where the hell it is. Drawing a fascinatingly eclectic crowd, this event includes an underground chill-out lounge, food (not just the chips upstairs), and its cover charge nets you unlimited soft drinks and 4 alcoholic ones. The location is harder to specify, as its a closely guarded secret, but clues can be found on a special twitter account (@kishinoyuichi)… though they will be in Japanese. Ask a helpful hotel manager (or google) to help you translate! All we can say is… you’ll find this little treasure near the Sumida River, behind a storefront covered in old records…

Muscles aching from all that grooving? Get set to relax in the darkest depths of a kuroyo bath. This onyx-black onsen water gets its colour from natural humic acid, said to heal sore joints, improve circulation, and soften the skin. What’s more, this water is so inky-dark that your hand (or anything else) disappears about 3cm beneath the surface – so shy customers unused to undressing in public have nothing to fear once submerged. One of the best spots to enjoy this remarkable bathing experience is in a quiet residential area south of Kamata Station, between the Tokaido and Keikyu railway lines. Here, there stands a delightfully old-school bathhouse which may look very ordinary, but is in fact one of the finest in the area. 

After a long soak, why not drape yourself languidly in the lounge area, order some sake and nibbles, and warm yourself up for a night of Karaoke? 

• Ota-Ku, Black Hot Springs, 1 Chome-26-16 Kamata, Ota City, Tokyo 144-0052, Japan