Watches THE ULTIMATE COLLECTOR’S GUIDE: TAG HEUER CARRERA 360

The latest range of ultra-high frequency ‘Mikro’ TAG Heuer watches traces its lineage back to the brand’s very first foray into high-precision chronographs. That iconic timepiece marked TAG Heuer’s first redevelopment of in-house mechanical watchmaking for over 35 years. Read on to get the Ultimate Collector’s Guide to the TAG Heuer Carrera.

An evolution of the very first Carrera Calibre 360 from 2005, the latest range of ultra-high frequency ‘Mikro’ TAG Heuer watches traces its lineage back to the brand’s very first foray into high-precision chronographs. That iconic timepiece marked TAG Heuer’s first redevelopment of  in-house mechanical watchmaking for over 35 years.

The Carrera Calibre 360 collection officially includes four Limited Edition Carreras, and demonstrated TAG Heuer’s renewed commitment to remain at the forefront of high-precision timekeeping.

  • TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 360 (CV5041.FC8164)

MOVEMENT

The Calibre 360 movement consists of a piggy-back Chronograph combining a Calibre 7 (ETA 2892) watch base with an impressive in-house Chronograph module delivering 1/100th of a second precision – the very first mechanical watch to reach this benchmark.

Most watch brands have only recently ventured into the relatively new field of ultra-precision; before the Calibre 360 arrived on the scene, no mechanical watches could claim 1/10th second capacity, let alone the elusive 1/100th precision.

TAG Heuer Vanquish (CV5080)

TAG HEUER VANQUISH

Does this watch look familiar? Produced in an Ultra-Limited Edition of 12 pieces, the TAG Heuer Vanquish was the first watch to embody the Carrera 360 concept and its unique, eponymous movement. Its claim to fame? No less than the most precise wristwatch ever conceived until 2005. A series of Limited-Edition watches showcasing the new Carrera Calibre 360 movement followed soon after.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 360 (CV5011.FC6191)

CARRERA 360 STAINLESS STEEL

Crafted in stainless steel and showing a plain black dial, this first version was limited to only 360 watches. Interestingly, unlike any other Carrera 360s, the ‘1/100’ mark sits above the six o’clock register and ‘Calibre 360’ below. But this elusive beauty is hard to find; they remain all-but impossible to track down on the vintage market – could you be one of the lucky owners?!

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 360 (CV5041.FC8164)

CARRERA 360 ROSE GOLD

Limited to 500 watches, the Rose Gold model blends deep brown and rose gold hues similar to those seen in the 2011 Carrera Mikrograph, and reveals a subtle guilloché finish on the dial.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 360 (CV5040.FC8160)

CARRERA 360 WHITE GOLD

The White Gold version, limited to only 100 pieces, has an elegant and uncluttered white and blue dial. As in the Stainless Steel model, the 1/100th second hand is highlighted in red for maximum effect.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 360 (CV5013.FC6232)

CARRERA 360 PVD TEMPUS

Specially made for the Tempus ‘Temple of Time’ Exhibition in 2007, TAG Heuer created a collection of ‘all-black’ limited editions; the extremely rare ‘Full Black’ Carrera 360 (CV5013) was released in an edition of only ten pieces.

The Tempus watch pioneered the distinctive Red & Black design later used on the Grand Carrera Calibre 17 RS and Calibre 36. The model featured here – kindly photographed by collector Brad Harrison – is full of charisma, with its striking red accents.

OTHER CALIBRE 360s

An unusual model, the Monaco LS Calibre 360 (revealed at Basel 2006 as a concept watch) never made it into production; but its movement and the Rotating Disc (RS) system were later used on the Grand Carrera range.

INFLUENCE

Throughout the brand’s history, the Carrera Calibre 360 was the most exclusive line of TAG Heuer watches ever made. Designed by Christoph Behling, the range extends to a mere 970 examples across four distinct styles (or 610 if you deduct the Steel model examples).

GRAND CARRERA

Grand Carreras share many similarities with the Carrera 360 design; the steel Grand Carreras include the Carrera 360’s large, flat outer bezel, while the Calibre 17 RS2 (above) and the Calibre 36 RS (below) borrow their colour scheme from the PVD Carrera 360.

CARRERA DAY-DATE

Similarities also stand out between the Carrera Day-Date and the Carrera 360. Mirrored details include the two-digit minute markers, the red band on the Chronograph pusher, or the silver ringed sub-dials.

THE MIKRO FAMILY

Exemplifying TAG Heuer’s renewed interest in high-precision mechanical watchmaking, the Carrera 360 re-established the brand’s credibility in the ultra-precision field. It also led to the birth of the Mikro family: the Mikrograph, Mikrotimer and Mikrogirder.

With their timeless design – still as contemporary as ever – the highly collectable Carrera 360s have certainly earned their special place in TAG Heuer history.

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